Top print and side print describe where the legend sits. Light-through is whether that legend shows a backlight. Dye-sublimation and double-shot are how the legend is made. And PBT, ABS or epoxy resin is what the cap is made of. A product can be side-printed and still not be light-through, so we state these separately rather than letting one imply another.

Double-shot legends are not ink on the surface

On a double-shot cap the legend is formed by a second moulded colour, not by an ink layer laid on top. That makes it far more resistant to daily wear — but wear resistance is not scratch resistance, and we do not promise that a legend will never wear.

Dye-sublimation works differently: the pattern is drawn into the surface layer of the material, which holds up well to everyday use. Even so, sharp objects, abrasives and unsuitable cleaning can still mark or remove it.

Which materials and legends we offer, and what each set contains, is listed on the keycap sets and in each set's included-keys list.

On sets used normally, if a legend wears away, the surface coating fails or a cap cracks within two years, contact us. Once we have verified the case, we will reship or replace the affected key. Send your order number, photos of the problem and a short note on how the keyboard is used.

Never scrape a keycap with a blade, a metal point or any sharp tool.

A finger brushing across a cap is not the same event as a blade dragged across it. On our samples, light contact from a fingernail left no obvious mark — but that observation is not a scratch guarantee for every design. Higher pressure or repeated scraping can still damage the texture, the pattern or the surface. Damage we verify as coming from blade scraping, forced fitting, drops or impacts, corrosive cleaners or improper high heat falls outside normal quality cover.

Faults that are not caused by use are handled under Returns & Refunds. If you are unsure which case yours is, ask us before cleaning or repairing anything.

ABS usually feels smoother under the finger. Under long, frequent contact it tends to polish and turn shiny — the effect often called shine or greasing — and how visibly it shows fingerprints and oil depends on the surface finish and on how the keyboard is used.

Our PBT keycaps are finished matte, with a fine bead-blasted texture, and are comparatively resistant to wear and to that polished shine. Everyday dust and light oiling come off with a soft, slightly damp cloth.

Wall thickness is one number, not a verdict

Most of our keycap sets run about 1.7 mm wall thickness, and the product specification for the set you own is the figure that applies — it is not the same across every set. In a similar build, a thicker cap can sound fuller and more solid. But the tone you hear is shaped by the material, the profile, the switches, the plate, the case, the foam or filling, and even the desk — not by the switch or the wall thickness alone. We do not promise that two keyboards built the same way will sound the same.

Measured profile heights

Cherry, ASA, JDA, OEM and MOA below use our own measured data. The six columns run in row order R4, R4, R3, R2, R1, R1 from the top row of the board down, and every figure is in millimetres. At the top row the measured heights are Cherry 9.81 mm, ASA 11.81 mm, JDA 11.13 mm, OEM 10.5 mm and MOA 9.8 mm; MOA stays at a uniform 9.8 mm across all six rows, while the others step down through the middle rows and rise again towards the bottom.

Artisan caps are made of epoxy resin, cast in multiple layers. Wipe them with a soft, slightly damp cloth, then remove the surface moisture with a dry part of the cloth.

Store resin caps somewhere cool and dry, and avoid pressing on the sculpted decoration — ears, petals and other protruding detail carry the least material. We do not quote a specific safe temperature range for the material until we hold test data for it, so treat "no heat" as the rule rather than a number.

If a resin cap has yellowed, do not repaint it or treat it with chemicals yourself. Send us photos and we will judge the case with you.

Airy sculpted pieces are also the ones that need the most careful fitting. See Keycap Installation & Removal for the contact points and the resin-only heat method, and the artisan keycap collection for the design you own.

1. Switch off and disconnect. Treat the keycaps and the electronic parts as two separate jobs.
2. Wipe the set caps with a soft cloth dipped in clean water and wrung out. For oil, wipe again lightly rather than pressing harder — no blades, no sharp points, no abrasives and no hard scrubbing.
3. Wipe artisan caps only. Light passes with a damp cloth, without rubbing the protruding decoration.
4. Let everything dry completely. Confirm the caps and the switch sockets are fully dry before refitting them.

Never put the whole keyboard or the switches in water, and never run caps through a washing machine or a dishwasher or dry them with high heat. For a resin cap that fits too tightly, follow the dedicated section on the installation guide rather than improvising.

If a spill reaches the switches themselves, deal with it as an electronics problem and contact us before powering the board back on.

The QuadPull and the three-piece care kit that bundles it with the brush and the 2-in-1 puller are listed as their own products — check what your own set or order includes before relying on a tool being in the box.

For the full four-step fitting and removal routine, including what to do when a switch comes up with the cap, see Keycap Installation & Removal.